Just a light coat to enhance the grain and color of the wood. Put it on, let it sit for five or ten minutes and wipe off completely. On previously stained or dyed surfaces it is advisable to test a small area first to make sure that the Danish Oil will produce the desired result. I like to dye my figured wood with transtint and denatured alcohol. These oils tend to bring out the curly or tiger looks of the maple. Can anyone weigh in on the merits or problems with using mineral oil? With Pine, dark and light danish oils apply very well on untouched mill finished wood. When you compare its durability to tung oil, this one doesn’t last long Conditioner, even a coat of Shellac, could make Maple wood yellow/Amber. Danish Oil. Not as Durable as Tung Oil. Kevin H. The way most people use BLO on "natural" wood finishes is more like you would use a stain. Using Tung oil on maple is like staining. Danish oil is a super common finish among woodworkers, although it isn’t clearly defined. I know it doesn't harden up like a tung oil finish, but the maple itself is quite sturdy and will bear up well. I use Danish oil a lot as well as solvent based pigment stains, coloured lacquers and NGR varsol based dye type stains. – Mikeber Nov 21 '17 at 22:36. I think they’re maple. In fact, the ambiguity with danish oil is even more severe. I had a roasted maple strat neck finished in one coat of Danish oil, front and back, but I have since sanded down the back and re-finished it in TRU OIL, as I prefer the feel and slightly lighter color of TO compared to DO. Danish Oil may be applied to previously oiled surfaces. You get a nice grain revealing finish. Thanks for providing any info on this. – Mikeber Nov 21 '17 at 22:41. Disadvantages of the Danish Oil. Unfortunately, Danish oil has quite a few disadvantages as well. I have also, and like to use various blends of Watco danish oil mixed in a jar. Similarly to mineral oil, the term danish oil can apply to many different substances. If the OP doesn’t want blotching, he needs to treat the wood before. Our Danish Oil is based on Tung Oil, and is a penetrating oil which will ‘feed’ and protect wood. It seeps into the wood faster than other oils such as Tung oil and so can be used on hardwoods such as cherry, oak, maple, ironwood, and mahogany. From what I read, danish oil is just BLO with some thinner and varnish mixed in in varying amounts. For a more durable finish, top-coat over the shellac with a clear lacquer or polyurethane. Another commonly used finishing technique on maple is to apply tung oil or linseed oil after the final sanding. For oil finishes most folks use "danish" oil which is mosly BLO with a little poly added. I will dye or Watco the wood up to 3 times and sand back the wood between coats leaving the dye in the end-grain the flat-grain should have low to no color in it. I don’t want the oil to get on people’s clothes. https://www.triedandtruewoodfinish.com/projects/project-3-title-short Even applying dyes is the same. 5. The term “Danish Oil” is basically a catch all term for any oil-based wood finish. I was thinking of just rubbing mineral oil all over it and letting it set for a couple of weeks and then call it done. I want to know if using Danish Oil on chairs is appropriate. Follow the oil with a coat or two of shellac. So I need to try to remove the finish between frets so I can apply TRU OIL on the fretboard as well.